Museums, taverns and an Ottoman castle clasped around a hill. Lesbos’ bustling capital is a mixed bag that will delight history buffs and explorers. Check out the Roman antiquities at the Archeological Museum and priceless works by Picasso and Chagall at the avant-garde Teriade Museum. Poke around the old Turkish quarter with its ornate houses. And whatever you do, leave time to sit and drink in the old-time atmosphere. Sip espresso in a kafenion as old men click their worry beads. Nibble on salted sardines at the sidestreet taverna. Or sip ouzo by the harbour, watching the fishermen land their catches. It’s undistilled Greece at its best.